Saturday, September 22, 2012

Running in the Vil


Note: This first part of my blog doesn’t have much to do with the running part – it is only something interesting that I realized.  I run because I want to, because it calms me, because I feel great when I do.

My weight in Malawi has fluctuated tremendously.  If you remember correctly, before I left for Peace Corps, I proceeded to put on 10 pounds that I was sure I would lose the moment I got to Malawi.  Plus I really wanted an excuse to eat as much as I wanted prior to departure.

Homestay – stayed the same, maybe lost a pound or two

Moved to site – lost 5 pounds (couldn’t get a fire started)

Hot Season – lost 5 more pounds

Trip to Germany at Christmas – gained 10 pounds (Schnitzel, chocolate, wine and cookies!)

Minor Depression/mid-service slump – lost 5 pounds

Malaria – lost 10 pounds (I looked sickly)

Third computer broke – gained 10 pounds (probably – not exactly sure – I feel it though – just sitting there) after eating 24 candy bars in 4 days

So here I am, slightly depressed over the loss of my third computer (just when things were getting good – my grants were going through, my dongle allowed me to stay in touch, my life skills curriculum was turning into a beautiful piece of work…), feeling sick from the pack of 24 candy bars (Snickers knock-offs – caramel, nougat with peanuts but definitely not the same thing) that I purchased recently.  It was on a whim, for sure but I embraced the splurge with open arms.  Even eating 24 bars in 4 days was difficult – I was trying to make them last as long as possible but I also never turned down a craving.

Instead of feeding the frenzy by allowing the droplets of dopamine to soothe my soul, I started running again.  As you may know, I’ve been a distance runner since high school – on and off with the advent of iliotibial band syndrome (I like to call it my trick knee) – and I love a good long run every now and again.  I’ve been blessed with incredibly athletic genes – not the ones that make me able to throw, catch, kick or hit a ball, as my coordination is lacking as you may know, I’m a spaz – but I can run like the wind and I can get back into shape within days of running again.  Not to brag or anything.

So I’m running.

Village running is an interesting sport.  I wake up as the sun is rising (this is the coolest part of the day and also when the fewest number of people are around), throw on sweat pants (showing your knees is considered promiscuous – so as not to look like I tramp, I wear far too many clothes that make me sweat uncomfortable amounts), a tank top and my running shoes (the most important item I brought to country, with the exception of my super-sweet camera).

I step out of my house and jog behind it to the road where I am greeted by morning salutations and cheering children.  It keeps me going.  But in a country that loves to greet, I struggle with responses through gasps of air.  While along the road, I get stopped by passers-by, demanding to know where I’m going. 

“Ndilipo,”  I reply. “Just around.”

Running and exercise is clearly a first-world issue – most people are in shape here because they work so hard physically. I get looks of confusion and acknowledgement of the crazy.  Some nod, some protest and some just laugh.

Sometimes women will run beside me, barefoot and clad in a chitenje.  They keep up for a while, laughing and yelling my name.

Sometimes I hear the pitter patter of tiny bare feet running behind me. I turn around and giggles burst through mouths covered by tiny hands.

Sometimes my students run with me – bragging to everyone who is willing to listen that they are getting their exercise for the day (Yeah, Life Skills!)

When I run until I can no longer handle it, I bring it on home.  No fancy Garmin GPS watches here (Although I miss mine and really wish I brought it to country at times – but what would I do with another electronic, honestly?). I run back, up the hill, through the fields, chased or followed or alone with my thoughts.  I do my best thinking while I’m running and the sun is rising over the hills and all I hear are my Nikes hitting the ground in a slower rhythm than my heart  – together they throw down a sick beat.

I return home tired and sweating like I was day-dreaming about a chocolate covered donut all day.  The body aches that follow the next day make me feel alive and sometimes need the relief of a massage or yoga.  Cool water from my filter and I take off my sweaty, sticky clothes and lie on my floor until my body settles into normal breathing.

Bliss.

Wednesday, September 19, 2012

The Dreaded PUMP, LIFT and CARRY


Oh dear, out of water and my reserves are empty, too.  I grab a bucket and walk slowly to the borehole behind the hospital.  It’s not a long walk, but I take my time.  I dread the pump, lift and carry.

THE PUMP

I wait patiently for women and children to pump water into their buckets.  At certain times, the line can be pretty long.  The water moves swiftly into the bucket, making a gushing sound as it hits the bottom.  Women chat casually, mostly gossip.  Children take turns pumping – often fighting over who will go next.  Sometimes children will pump water for me, but I don’t mind doing it myself.  I set my bucket down beneath the spigot and walk behind the pump.  I give it two or three big pumps then walk to my bucket again to rinse and dump out the water.  I set the bucket down a second time I begin the long pump.  It usually takes no more than a minute to fill a bucket, but sometimes the water table is low and it takes longer.  It’s a mini workout.  Well, the whole process is, really.

THE LIFT

I lift the bright orange 20 liter bucket up and onto my head as a liter of it splashes on to my face and down my back.  It feels good during hot season.  I prefer it over a bath.  But in cold season, I shiver and my fingers go numb before I even get home.  The women at the borehole sing me “sorry” and laugh at my goofy stance as I try to balance before I take my first step.  By the time I carry the bucket 100-meters back to my house, I will have lost another liter along the path.  I get teased mostly because I carry the same amount of water as an 11-year old child.  Most women carry about 50 liters of water on their heads.  My neck is not nearly that strong and I’m lucky to get 20 on my head without busting my face (which has happened on occasion).

THE CARRY

I steady the bad boy with two hands – one on each side of bucket and step forward.  Here goes.  I walk passed onlookers who stare for far too long and friends who really want to greet me with my hands full as a joke or with sincerity.  I don’t say much, I smile and say “see you later” and try not to breathe too heavily on the way to my house.  Heavy breathing is not attractive when you’re doing chores.

I open my front door with one hand while the bucket wobbles on my head. I hold my breath. On the rare occasion I’m not focusing on my duty, I have dropped and broken a bucket on my front porch, releasing 20 liters of water on to cement which dried in less than 3 minutes in the hot Malawi sun.  I carry the bucket through my living room and into the hallway where two 60 liter buckets are thirstily waiting for me to fill them.  I have missed the big bucket before, pouring water all over my hall floor.  No amount of mopping can soak that up.  I had to brush it out my back door, as I slipped around (someone left a bar of soap on the floor?) navigating around the buckets taking up way too much space in my hallway.

Dump into big bucket.  

Repeat. (x4 on an average day and x8 on laundry day – or when I drop a bucket carelessly)

 

Saturday, September 15, 2012

My favorite moment vlog

In my village, a group of women (staff and spouses of staff members) meet to visit sick members of hospital staff, to welcome families into the neighborhood and to say good-bye to members who are moving to another hospital. This is one of my favorite memories at Dwambazi. Ama Chimbutu is the woman in the green, dancing and shaking it the loudest. We went to a house to say good-bye to a family with gifts and money and broke out into spontaneous dance party. It was a beautiful moment - so full of genuine care and love and fun.

Friday, September 07, 2012

A walk through my village...in pictures!

I walk through my village a lot trying to soak up all its goodness.  I'll miss it when I'm gone.
 
 
 
 
My most brilliant thoughts begin in a maize field...
 
 
 
 

 
Some kids playing football in the yard...
 
 



 
Maize drying in the street...
 
 
 

Saturday, September 01, 2012

Camp GLOW 2012 - We Are Proud!


Camp GLOW (Girls Leading Our World) is a week-long girls empowerment camp by Peace Corps Volunteers, specifically from the health sector (in Malawi).  It encourages young women to be active citizens, build confidence, self-awareness and self-esteem.  GLOW also teaches topics including health, career planning and the environment. Girls learn skills in assertiveness, goal-setting and life planning.

The program began in 1995 in Romania with three Peace Corps Volunteers, four teachers and 80 girls.  It started in Malawi in 2003 and has been going strong ever since. We have had over 300 girls attend GLOW over the years.

Perhaps you remember my note about GLOW last year?

 

“You don’t have to be anti-man to be pro-woman” – Jane Galvin Lewis


 

A few facts for you:


Globally, adolescent girls are 50% more likely to be HIV positive than boys of the same age.
Greene M et al, Girls Speak a New Voice in Global Development. International Center for Research on Women, 2010.
 

 
Educated girls have better opportunities to participate in community and decision-making. They are more informed about health risks such as HIV and AIDS.
They also tend to marry later, have fewer, healthier, better-nourished children and are more likely to send their children to schools.

DFID, DFID Factsheet on Gender Equality, (London: DFID, 2008).


 
Nearly half of all girls in Malawi are married by age 18, and one in four teen girls already has a child.
Less than a quarter of girls finish elementary school in Malawi.

In Malawi, approximately 65% of girls experience some form of child abuse during their lifetime, compared to 35% of boys.
Klasen S et al. The Impact of Gender Inequality in Education and Employment on Economic Growth in Developing Countries: Updates and Extensions. World Bank Group, August 2008.
 

“There is a growing strength in women but it’s in the forehead, not the forearm.” – Beverly Sills


 

After the two days I spent last year, I knew I wanted to be a part of the action.  This year I applied to be a counselor to get a more personal experience with working one-on-one with a group of girls.

A glance at my Camp GLOW application essays:  “What does ‘female empowerment’ mean to you?” and “Why do you want to be a camp counselor?”

If you can believe it, this page was blank for several hours while I tried to put into words the montage of images that flashed through my head.  “Female empowerment” is not an easy phrase to summarize in 500 – 1000 words however, having first-hand experience with being a lady, I think I can narrow down my favorite qualities of women – the ones that make me most proud to be a woman.

The “female empowerment” montage of images begins with athletes.  Women running, throwing, kicking, hitting – they exert their power in any capacity with grace and strength.  Tennis players, a game of softball, volleyball, cycling – the images run quickly through my head until we see an 11-year old Kathi in a soccer game.  It was boys versus girls.  The air was tense, my heart was pounding. I wanted to win so badly.  The score was 2 – 2. I ran beside my best friend as she made a break with the ball. She tripped and fell – the ball was loose! I raced for it, made one look at the goal, closed my eyes and booted it into the net.  We won! We beat the boys!

It was the first time I ever truly felt proud to be a girl.  I was strong and capable and I believed in myself. More images of strength flash through my mind: a woman gives birth in a sweaty, rural clinic without an anesthetic, another graduates from university with high honors, and yet another carries a pile of wood on her head with a baby on her back and a chicken in each hand.  Whether it’s great physical feat or educational accomplishments, women are strong and capable.

Then there is beauty.  Women are the most beautiful creatures – not just physical attractiveness, but with daily life: the sashay of hips as women balance buckets on their heads; the deep-set wrinkles around a grandmother’s eyes from years of laughter; the songs and cheers of young girls playing; dancing that is free from worry or rhythm.  Beauty is not a one-size-fits-all: it’s tall, short, thin, wide, and voluptuous with big noses, thin lips, large smiles, too many teeth and wild hair. One is beautiful in a skirt and heels that click down the hallway; in sweatpants and sneakers; barefoot in a chitenje.  Beauty is the moments where women think that no one is watching, but their movement and presence is appreciated. 

Finally the images in my head slow down, but their meanings are difficult to decipher.  There is no clear pattern to the pictures.  And then I realize it’s individuality: shaving heads, burning bras, marching for a cause – women do it with passion.  No matter what, a woman is still herself and she should always stand confidently and without fear.

It’s these strong, beautiful individuals that we must praise because they are the ones who bring out change.  They lead by example and they live this one life they are given with purpose.  I encourage these women to inspire us more.  In my life, I try to set an example for my younger sisters, my girls group, my students and even all the males in my life.  I want them to know that a woman does not need a man’s attention to know that she is beautiful.  I encourage girls to stay in school because education is an investment that no one can take from you.  Most importantly, I show appreciation for those who embrace differences and creativity and who have innovative ideas.  In this way, I want to inspire women to be confident and proud to be female and I want men to respect and appreciate the females in their lives.

I have been excited about Camp GLOW since my site visit during PST.  During that week, I met the program coordinator for Camp GLOW 2010.  She showed me photos, curriculum and projects she has continued with girls who went to Camp.  I was inspired by her stories about girls gaining confidence and knowledge about sensitive topics, like healthy sexual practices.  I knew I wanted to experience this incredible week that she talked about first hand.

I have experience working with youth in Malawi and I am eager to share a week with eleven young women whom I can inspire and who will inspire me. I am creative – a gift I inherited from my mother, a truly empowered woman.  I can tell an elaborate story, make pinch pots out of clay and problem-solve with unique ability. I uphold ideals, a goody-goody since I was a child, I like rules and format.  However, I dance to the beat of my own drum. Sometimes there’s no beat at all, but I’m still dancing.

Finally, a note on what I will offer as a counselor. I am positive, full of energy and eager to work.  I want to provide these young women with self-confidence they can walk away with.  I would like to feel the inspiration I felt after two days at Camp GLOW 2011 last year and use that energy to focus on my girls group in my community.  I believe in the power of Camp GLOW and I would love for it to be a part of my Peace Corps experience.

 

“It doesn’t matter who you are or where you come from.  The ability to triumph begins with you. Always.” – Oprah Winfrey


 

This year we had 60 secondary school girls attend and 6 previous campers as junior counselors.  Each Peace Corps Volunteer counselor was paired with a counterpart counselor (a professional Malawian woman who tag-teamed with PCV counselors – an excellent source of information and role model).  

Some excerpts from my counselors…

“It is my sincere hope that this camp will be fruitful to me as a person as well as my profession.  I have always been willing to help the Malawian nation in terms of encouraging women.  I always aim high to be a role model in every community that I live.” – my co-counselor, an amazing woman who has had many life experiences that made her the strong, independent woman that she is – I am so lucky to have spent the week with her.

“I want to be a junior counselor so that I can tell girls to change our world.  I will tell them they can reach where men reach. I want to tell them that men are like us and the jobs they do in government, companies and industries, we can also do just like them. So I will remove the fears they have. I want them to develop their life planning skills and to be assertive.” – my junior counselor, an incredibly ambitious girl who was at Camp last year who inspired my ten campers to dream big and to keep dreaming always.

 

“When women thrive, all of society benefits, and succeeding generations are given a better start in life” – Kofi Annan


 

This quote was the first one I read when I opened up the Camp GLOW 2012 curriculum manual.  It was found in italics on the bottom of a page that I had opened at random.  Yes, I thought, this is why I’m here.

The week was a whirlwind – waking up at 6 and going to bed at 11. For a girl who sleeps a lot more than that, I was pooped. It was worth every second. To be honest, I didn’t want to waste any time sleeping anyway.

The guest speakers included many successful women who encouraged the girls and took time to answer questions: the Principal Secretary for Nutrition and HIV/AIDS from the office of the President and Cabinet, the Education Program Officer for VSO, the Program Manager from the Ministry of Health, Deputy Governor of the Reserve Bank, the Program Assistant for Health from Peace Corps, self-employed business women, Public Relations Officer from the City Council, an HIV Support Group speaker, a journalist, the Executive Director for Malawi Health Equity Network, and a human rights activist.

A professional drama group performed a skit to encourage the girls to set goals and to not be discouraged by others.

We learned how to make reusable menstrual pads (A huge hit! Many girls miss school when they are menstruating because pads are unavailable in the village)

There was a bonfire – the “I can’t” funeral. Girls wrote on a piece of paper something that someone told them they could not do or were discouraged from.  One by one, the girls read what was on the paper and threw it into the fire. It was so inspiring and beautiful as the girls cheered when their paper lit into flames, representing that they can do what is on the paper. We held hands and sang “Lean on Me” – yeah I cried a little.

We had a dance party. Always epic.

There was a “manel” – a panel of men, Malawian and American, who answered questions the girls had about sex, gender and relationships.

Crafts included friendship bracelets and journal-making. Most girls did not know of the concept of journaling, so we took time to write down our thoughts and chose topics to write about every night.

We had talks from some amazing Peace Corps Volunteers. Topics included: sex vs. gender, condom demos, healthy sexual practices, democracy and human rights, abuse, peer education, and self-esteem.

Then there was my favorite – the Talent Show. These girls are extraordinarily talented. And Malawians love to show it off - everything from songs and dances to dramas and poetry. My group of girls sang a song and it was beautiful. I joined them half way through their performance and they hugged me so hard. So much love! The GLOW staff read one of my favorite poems, Phenomenal Woman by Maya Angelou.

Phenomenal Woman

Pretty women wonder where my secret lies.
I'm not cute or built to suit a fashion model's size
But when I start to tell them,
They think I'm telling lies.
I say,
It's in the reach of my arms
The span of my hips,
The stride of my step,
The curl of my lips.
I'm a woman
Phenomenally.
Phenomenal woman,
That's me.

I walk into a room
Just as cool as you please,
And to a man,
The fellows stand or
Fall down on their knees.
Then they swarm around me,
A hive of honey bees.
I say,
It's the fire in my eyes,
And the flash of my teeth,
The swing in my waist,
And the joy in my feet.
I'm a woman
Phenomenally.
Phenomenal woman,
That's me.

Men themselves have wondered
What they see in me.
They try so much
But they can't touch
My inner mystery.
When I try to show them
They say they still can't see.
I say,
It's in the arch of my back,
The sun of my smile,
The ride of my breasts,
The grace of my style.
I'm a woman

Phenomenally.
Phenomenal woman,
That's me.

Now you understand
Just why my head's not bowed.
I don't shout or jump about
Or have to talk real loud.
When you see me passing
It ought to make you proud.
I say,
It's in the click of my heels,
The bend of my hair,
the palm of my hand,
The need of my care,
'Cause I'm a woman
Phenomenally.
Phenomenal woman,
That's me.

Maya Angelou

 

The reflection time each night was my favorite part of the day.  Everything began winding down.  The girls had plenty on their minds and were always eager to chat about everything late into the night. They shared personal stories of abuse and struggles and I found it difficult to address some of the topics in the best way. At times all I could do was listen.  I gave words of encouragement, but some situations may not always make it from under the rain cloud.  I was always so impressed with the girls in the group. They seemed to know what to say to their sister to comfort her. And they were much wiser than other girls their age.  I guess you grow up faster here in many ways. Sometimes I would go to bed feeling helpless, but also grateful for the insight I was getting. One thing’s for sure, these girls are brave.

Another great night was the candle-lighting ceremony. All 60 girls, 6 junior counselors, 12 counselors, GLOW coordinating team and the assisting team held candles and lit them one by one as we said what we learned at GLOW this year – what will we take back with us? The girls held glow-in-the-dark wrist bands (which we used to teach them what “glow” means”) . It was a beautiful ceremony – everyone was still and thoughtful - a great way to end our last day. What did I take back with me from GLOW? Sixty-six new sisters and an appreciation for my service here in Malawi – through all the trials and tribulations, being away from home and learning a new culture and missing my family…. GLOW makes all my efforts feel worth it.

Oh, did I mention Hillary Clinton stopped by? Yeah, so she showed up. It was pretty cool.

The entire week at Camp was filled with mystery as our cafeteria was taken over by the American Embassy and transformed into a press room. No one was confirming who are big guest speaker was at the end of the week, they only said it was a VIP. We had our theories. Rumors of a visit from the Secretary of State were the most prevalent, but our coordinators were tight-lipped.

Guess what? Madame Secretary made an appearance at GLOW. She stopped by Malawi for only a few hours on her way to South Africa. She talked to the girls about her camp experiences as a Girl Scout and how that shaped her for her future. One girl (a camper I brought from Tukombo Girls named Anna) gave a speech to Hillary about GLOW and the challenges girls face in Malawi. Another girl presented Mrs. Clinton with a gift – a chitenje and a lovely 50th Anniversary of Peace Corps commemorative book, which we all signed. And another girl wrapped Hillary Clinton in the chitenje and received a big hug and smile from her. It was the sweetest thing I’ve ever seen. She shook hands (I have yet to wash mine – it’s been 3 weeks) and went on her way. Not bad, Camp GLOW.

The part that brought me chills, almost to tears, was the fact that the press who were there to cover the event were all female journalists. I was so touched by this fact and the girls cheered when they heard the news – so proud of their fellow females.

Although extremely exciting, I didn’t want this experience to take away from Camp. Yes, HRC is quite the lady, but Camp GLOW is quite the camp. Meeting her was nothing compared to the experience I shared with my girls. The smiles, laughter, kindness and stories will be treasured long after I wash this hand. They’re the true heroes and role models – the future of Malawi.

This was shown prior to Madame Secreatary’s arrival. The Minister of Education and the Minister of Gender were waiting in the audience and allowed for a few questions to be asked. The questions began innocently enough – What were some challenges you faced? How did you handle working in a mostly-male environment? And then moving on to more pressing issues – Girls being sexually abused by their male teachers in schools – what is being done about this? And there is a movement for homosexuality to be legalized – do you agree with this? This left the Ministers a bit tongue-tied and the questioning was called off. The press noted this and it was in the newspaper the next day. In order to remain politically unbiased (as Peace Corps Volunteers are not allowed to take part in discussion regarding politics), I will leave you with these links:


“Remember, no one can make you feel inferior without your consent.” –Eleanor Roosevelt


By the end of Camp, the transformation was incredible. The girls who were shy on day 1, were chatting and cheering by day 5. Songs were being hummed in the early morning as girls showered and got ready for camp. I learned so much about my eleven girls and my co-counselor. We bonded – we became family and I knew I would miss them. I didn’t want to have to go to bed without saying good-night and blowing kisses to my group of lovely ladies. I hoped beyond hope that they would take everything they learned back and be strong, confident women who could achieve their goals.

And what about me? Well, I was transformed for sure. This camp moved me and has inspired me beyond words. This really long blog has not even touched on how empowered I am. I feel selfish – like I gained too much from this experience and I wasn’t even a camper.

“The thing women have yet to learn is nobody gives you power. You just take it.” – Roseanne Barr


The AfterGLOW


The last day of camp left an empty pit in my stomach. I didn’t want to say good-bye. And if you remember correctly, I’m the worst at good-byes. When the last hug and “I will miss you” was dished out and all the decorations and GLOW memorabilia was taken off the walls, I nursed my sorrows with the GLOW staff over 5 liters of ice cream. I speak the truth.

But it wasn’t all bitter. I must say I’ve had so many sweet moments in just a few weeks post-GLOW.  The girls from my group call me frequently just to say hello.  Peace Corps Volunteers who sent girls to GLOW have sent me text messages saying how much fun their girls had during the week.  One girl spent an afternoon teaching the boys in her village the songs she learned at GLOW.  Another girl has been teaching the girls in her community about healthy sexual practices.  Sunganani, the girl I sent to Camp this year, came up to me in the market and stated matter-of-factly, “We will be meeting at your house this Sunday. I will bring my friends. We are starting a girls group.” And we did.

The joy I feel from that magical week is indescribable. It was quite possibly the most amazing, transforming week of my life – definitely the best of my service.  If nothing else comes of my 27 months here, I will always have these 7 glorious, fun-filled, funky chicken days that I will savor.

Thanks to all the amazing help we received during the week from our coordinating team, counterpart counselors, PCV counselors, junior counselors, instructors, guest speakers and especially our eager, bright campers. You made Camp…so wonderful…so excellent.

I leave you with these final words…

“Never underestimate the power of a woman.” –Nellie McClung


 

Some links that may tickle your fancy…

"Clinton inspires girls" from Nation: http://shellyannwhittet.shutterfly.com/6991

 "Women crucial to development" from Times: http://shellyannwhittet.shutterfly.com/6992

 Minister's response to girl's question regarding homosexuality:






Secretary of State Hilary Clinton’s address to the girls: http://www.state.gov/secretary/rm/2012/08/196065.htm