Make New Friends but Keep the Old

Today is the last day of 2011 and I must say that this year has been very good to me.  Looking back at this roller coaster of an experience, I can only be grateful for my friends and family for their constant love and support.  I appreciate you giving me strength and encouragement when I needed it the most.

As for my newly acquired friends, I cannot express enough how happy I am to know you.  You are my immediate support and I am lucky to have you nearby to relay my crazy stories that no one else can understand.

My apologies to those who had to spend time with me in the first few months of 2011 - you know what I am talking about - those two months prior to my departure where I was going crazy and questioning my decision and scared to death to move across the world...guess what? I am alive and well and completely in love with my life here and now I am just laughing at my silliness.

So cheers to 2011 (pando!) and bring it on 2012 - I'm ready for you!

Peace and love to everyone every where.

Journal Excerpts from September

September 1, 2011

I just got some major inspirado today. Just when I started to get anxious about IST, I realized (with a little help from my friends) that I don’t need to be on Peace Corps’ timeline. I know they suggest that I have prepared statistics and data for them to send back to Washington, but you can’t force integration. I think I am doing fairly well in the community, but my data isn’t about numbers, it’s about my relationships. Cheesin’ it up, are we? Yes, yes, I am – but it’s true! Am I going to remember how many diarrhea cases we cured at the hospital? Or my hilariously inappropriate interactions with Ama Chimbutu? Or the way the tailor yells “yewu, yewu, yewu!” after me when I walk to the market? Or how the children chase me with invisible cameras singing “Cha-ching, cha-ching, cha-ching!”

I have a good start on my stats and some solid information to relay back to headquarters. My relationships with the HSAs are growing, slowly so we will truly be able to work hand-in-hand. I think we have an understanding of each other now. Honestly, I prefer trust over a fully-written/half-assed assessment.
On my way to visit the headmaster at the secondary school, I was met by the garden guy, Kenneth. I met Kenneth a long time ago and we agreed to do some agriculture work together. He worked with Megan and Alex previously, so I was interested in working with him. He told me I needed to have a kitchen garden and I informed I that I intended on starting one, but I was concerned that I don’t know what I am doing.

“You have my number, why didn’t you call?” He demanded.

And then it dawned on me – I never thought to ask for help. I am either fiercely independent or stubborn as hell. And slightly insecure.

And just like that, I arranged for a garden date.

As I was chatting with Kenneth, who do you think shows up? The headmaster – the reason I was heading that direction. One of my favorite things about village life is that somehow everything falls into place. I arranged to meet with the school staff on Wednesday the following week to get started.

And with a snap of my fingers, I was back home just in time to cook lunch. Life is good.
I heard a group of women chatting as they walked by my house. I peaked out to see Ama Chimbutu and crew walking by with a large bucket neatly packed within a chitenje. I followed behind as they entered a house. Music was already playing as we surprised the unsuspecting Ama Limbani. The volume increased and the women swayed in a circle as the dancing commenced. Some made sounds (similar to a turkey gobble – or like ayiyiyiyiyiyiyiyiyi!), smiling big, arms swaying, hips shaking.

I whispered to Ama Dambo to ask what was happening. She told me one of the hospital staff was leaving and we were saying good-bye. I joined in the dancing (of course) and when the song was over, the women sat down and fanned themselves. Sweat beaded down their faces and splashed on the floor. They glistened, but were grinning ear to ear.

We each went around the circle, saying something nice to Mrs. Limbani. I stumbled my way though a statement in Tonga and then switched to English. She appreciated it. She teared up with all the good-byes from everyone.

To stop the tears, we started the music again and the dancing continued. We gave her two buckets and a beautiful chitenje, as well as money. She was so grateful. I hugged her good-bye and watched my beautiful, kind-hearted neighbors eat freezies from Ama Limbani’s freezer. Their energy and spirit is so moving and genuine (and universally understood and appreciated). It was a wonderful feeling and in this moment, I stepped back to admire their generosity and love. I felt completely happy – I knew that this is the place where I belong and there is no other place I would rather be. Bliss.

I am pretty sure this village was meant for me – or am I made to live in this village?

September 7, 2011

I recently offended my village. I was biking to Clarissa’s for turkey dinner and I made a huge blunder. When there is a funeral, it is customary for a piled of broken branches to be placed along the side of the road to let people know that someone has died. It is expected that people driving by will take off their hats in respect and to walk their bicycles through the branches. Well I wasn’t paying attention and I booked it right through the branches. Someone stopped me to tell me that wasn’t allowed and I played it off like “I am a stupid foreigner – I don’t know any better” but really I learned that my first week of cultural training. Shoot. Well, hopefully no one is too angry with me.

Turkey dinner, however, was amazing. Clarissa killed the bird, Sol cleaned it and I ate it. Well, yeah that pretty much sums it up. Clarissa’s neighbors were the ones who received the turkey as a gift and they were impressed with the roasted goodness. We shared stories of Thanksgiving pasts – it was glorious. Turkey for lunch and dinner.

Trivous and I are prepped for IST – at least I hope we are. Still typing my report and I leave tomorrow. Nothing like the last minuite…

I went to a meeting at the secondary school. It was a huge success – I am so less stressed about teaching life skills now that they gave me the run-down. Any meeting involving Coca-cola and cookies is a success, amiright?  

September 27, 2011

Okay, time to re-cap. I have plenty to say – pump yourself up (deep breath).

I had to psych myself up for the trip to Lilongwe two weeks ago. Traveling anywhere can be a hassle, but traveling to Lilongwe makes me cringe. Stacey, Clarissa and I started out on the 4am bus, where were dropped at the Salima turn—off. It’s typically easier to hitch from Salima once you get to the M1. Or so we thought. Erin met us on the side of the road, so there were four of us outside a school waiting for a ride. It didn’t take long for a group of 60 (or more) children to gather around us chanting, taunting and eventually throwing rocks and sticks in our general direction. Granted, they missed, however, it was the principle. These kids had no manners. We chased them back to school, asked adults to help us, ignored them – nothing could calm these wild children who seemed to come straight out of the book Lord of the Flies.

Finally a ride!

My stomach began to hurt when we reached Lilongwe. This place is overwhelming, spread out and it seems that every time I go there I get ripped off.

However, eating pizza and ice cream does help. After a few errands over the next two days, we finally made it to Dedza.

It was quite the family reunion. Hair was longer, faces were tanner, stories were exchanged, project ideas were bounced around and it felt like we were back home in Dedza. Over beers and dance parties, I hugged my friends, surprised by how much I missed them all. It’s easy to get wrapped up in your village, but just as easy to fall back in your routine among friends.

The second week of training we went to a cultural museum. They didn’t talk about Tonga culture, but I did get a better understanding of Gule Wamkulu, which was fascinating. I wish there were more traditional dances and rituals in Tonga Land, but cultures tend to lose tradition when there is education, immigration and intercultural marriages.

Our counterparts arrived in Dedza for part 2 of training and I was happy to see Trivous eager to start the week.

The week was filled with a plethora of topics and programs but I was happy to enjoy a walk with Trivous where we enjoyed the Dedza mountains and chatted about out plans for the next few months. Trivous is a great counterpart – a trong woman with a lot of insight. Her smile lights up a room and she has experienced a lot to women’s groups in the area. A single mom raising three kids and she always has time for me.

In Lilongwe at the end of the week, Health ’11 enjoyed pizza and beer. I am sad to say good-bye to the central and southern region – I feel like I rarely see these guys.

So what did I learn?
-how to make soap
-how to start an income-generating activity
-how to make delicious, healthy cookies (thanks, Jenny!)
-how to write grants
-how to use the Hope Kit and Go Girls kit
I am so pumped – ready to go!

I feel like I caught my second wind and my motivation is at an all-time high. Let’s do this!

As for my previously mentioned garden project (from months ago!) Jimmy and I are in the midst of getting ready. I went to two permaculture demos in Lilongwe and have seeds that are begging to be planted. I am afraid of killing my veggies before they get a chance to sprout, but Jimmy keeps reassuring me that he has plenty of watering cans (because that’s the real issue) so the only thing stopping me is me.

Oh guess what? I have worms. Yes, just like your dog – we have something in common. The past two weeks I have had an upset stomach – actually it felt more like something was trying to birth itself through my chest. Not pleasant. But, while I was in Lilongwe, I took a blood test and was told it was probably worms, which is not uncommon. You can get it from drinking unclean drinking water. And you only have to take a pill to rid your body of the worms. Sometimes they go away on their own, but the discomfort and nausea is really obnoxious.

Back in the comforts of Tonga Land, Dwambazi is doing well. Freddy told me that he will be attending a different school this term so I was happy to give him school fees in exchange for all his help. Charity returned for a few days to visit her aunt. It was great having this joyful bubble of laughter around my a house. It was a treat.

The heat on the lakeshore is ferocious these days. By 10 am, I don’t want to move. If the water is on, I will stand under the cool shower for a few minutes. My pantry is 20 degrees colder than the rest of my house, so sometimes I just sit in there in the dark for a while. My neighbors recently purchased refrigerators, so now I can enjoy mafreezies (5 kwacha each for a small bag of frozen juice). As you can imagine, not much happens mid-day.

And my new name is Madame Nya Chirwa and I am your resident Life Skills teacher. I honestly don’t know what makes me qualified to teach anything, but the school was looking for someone to relieve the already understaffed classrooms. Bonus: I am a lady, so the girls at the school finally have a female role model. I’m hoping to get a youth program going at the school – specifically for girls.

I was nervous before my first day. I jotted down some notes, but really I just went in there without a clue.
And truly, it wasn’t that bad. The students stood to greet me in unison, they raised their hand to speak to me and if I wanted to erase the chalkboard, one of them would eagerly do it for me. Kind of a power trip, if you ask me.

Well, hopefully this respect lasts longer than a week.

As for the lesson, I have to speak in Special English – slow and repeated four different ways while saying the same thing. Sometimes I get blank stares and so I try to come up with something to fill the silence. Usually it’s corny (yes, already on the right path of teaching adolescents) and it’s very typical, awkward Kathi. My spazziness has not yet registered with the students, but I think they will catch on and appreciate my quirkiness soon enough. As I write this, goats are tearing down my fence. I must go take care of this. And greet my neighbors, as it has cooled down enough for me to put clothes back on.

12 Days of Christmas Malawi Style

A sorrowful update

My friends! My fans! I am sorry to say my computer has failed me - it
no longer turns on even though I pushed the button & then pushed many
buttons & then removed the battery & finally yelled curses at it. I
will have to wait a few weeks to have a guru check it out. In the
meantime, know that I am concocting some fantastic updates and have
experienced some hilarious blog-worthy moments. I apologize to my
public. Thank you for your continued support & have a happy holiday
with your loved ones!

Looking Dapper with Doxy

As you may recall, I had a run-in with my Malaria prophylaxis (hallucinations, irritability, insomnia). Well I recently switched to Doxycycline, a drug taken once per day (which makes it easy to forget, compared to once per week with Mefloquine) and the side effects include: YOU WILL BE HOTTER.

No, not as in temperature-wise (dummy) but as in you will become far more attractive on this anti-malaria pill. It will clear up your acne that you have had since you were twelve years old (my skin genetics have not worked in my favor for most of my life), but it will make you more susceptible to sun burns (or, in my case, a lovely bronze, thanks to that Native American gene). Not only am I Malaria-free, but I am gorgeous and I am less crazy (I don’t hallucinate anymore)!  Thus, I am quite the catch. (Obviously I am not stupid, I wear sunscreen on this continent. I am just saying, I have a glow about me).

Bottom line: Doxy is a delight.

Check it out

The Peace Corps Malawi website - hope you enjoy!

Secret Sauce

This recipe is being passed around (starting with Jay who received it from someone back home) and it is quite a delight.

¼ cup honey

¼ cup peanut butter

3 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons oil

2 tablespoons garlic

1 teaspoon ginger

Crushed pepper

Great Asian dipping sauce!

Noises

Malawians don’t wear their emotions on their sleeves (or whatever the expression is). They let you know loud and clear how they feel with sounds. I have compiled a short list of my favorites and I must say that I have started using these as well. I can’t help but wonder how these will be received when I come back home.

Odie – This is used to let someone know you are at their house. We don’t knock here. Well, actually I have conditioned my neighbors to knock on my door because I refuse to answer an “odie”. They are pretty okay with me changing things up.

ooooOOOOOoooooo – This sound is the sound of realization. (When the “o” gets bigger, that means the voice goes up an octave and gets louder). It’s acknowledging that something is understood, loud and clear.

An example of its use: When you tell your neighbor the reason you are sweating so much is because you have been waiting on the side of the road for three hours waiting for transport, but there is none because there is a fuel crisis: “ooooOOOOOOooooooo”

Eeee – This sound is almost a shriek and always has the same pitch, no matter who uses it. If you closed your eyes in a room full of Malawians and one made this sound, you could easily think that anyone of them made it. It’s funniest when a man uses it. It is used when something is shocking or if someone feels sorry for you.

An example of its use: You tell your neighbor you paid 2500 Malawian Kwacha for a charcoal stove when it should have been 400 Malawian Kwacha: “Eeeeeeeee!”

Ah-ah – This is the sound of astonishment or disgust. It’s a short “ah” and”ah” and it’s used as a “oh no you didn’t!” sort of a response.

An example of its use: Your neighbor tells you to go take a bathe (okay, this is a very personal example) and you show her the bottom of your foot to tell her it’s not that dirty, but oh wait, it’s very dirty indeed: “ah-ah!”

Ahahahahaha eeeeeeeee – This is my favorite. This is typically used by a group of women who are chatting and they use it in unison. One of them says something hilarious and then everyone laughs heartily and ends with the “eeeee” at the end, as if to sigh after all that hearty laughter.

Example of its use: The crazy foreigner came over to the house to chat, but obviously doesn’t know Chitonga well enough to make a significant contribution to the conversation so she straps your newborn on her back and starts dancing around the compound. You say something to the others in Chitonga…something to the effect of ‘She is such a weirdo’:  everyone in unison responds, “ahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha eeeeeeeeeeeeeee”

I have worms!

Yes, your dog and I have something in common.

Well, we did a few weeks ago. During IST, I was suffering from some gastrointestinal discomfort. Not uncommon here, but the pain lasted for weeks. I thought maybe it was a change in diet or perhaps a stubborn gas bubble that just would not burst. The pain would come and go without rhyme or reason.

One time when I was giving a presentation, I doubled over in pain. It felt as if something was trying to birth itself from my chest. I finally talked to a friend who said she had the same problem (I will keep her anonymous, as not everyone is proud of acquiring weird like I am) and she said she had worms. They went away on their own, but the doctor did give her a de-wormer just to be sure.

So I went to the Peace Corps docs and took a blood test. They said it did indeed sound like worms and they should go away on their own.

After another week of pain, nausea and loss of appetite, I finally went to my hospital (literally 50 yards from my house) and picked up some de-wormer. Within 48 hours the discomfort was gone and I am back in business.

Some words for the wary…

Getting worms can happen to anyone. Don’t be a victim. Make sure you wash your food before cooking it and drink clean water. Even with the necessary precautions, you can be targeted by these heinous creatures who will only make you slightly miserable until they die.  

I survived and so can you. With the help of a de-wormer called Albendazole. Together, we can take down crime and cure the worms.

Banana Jam

Jam can be made from almost any fruit. Since my neighbor had a stalk of bananas, almost too ripe, I took the opportunity to make some banana jam - which is awesome on peanut butter sandwhiches.

1) Wash fruit. (Unnecessary with bananas, really). Place in a large pot and just cover with water. Boil whole until fruit is very soft and remove seeds and stems (also unnecessary with bananas). Replace fruit back in original water which may or may not need to be strained first, depending on stems and foreign matter.

2) Measure contents of the boiled fruit liquid. For each portion of fruit liquid, you need to add one proportion 

sugar. For example: 10 cups of banana liquid requires 10 cups of sugar (yeah, my heart is pumping just thinking about the rush I'm going to get eating this delicious treat).

3) For each cup of sugar and juice, add juice of a small lemon or 1/2 large lemon. Be sure to remove seeds before adding this. (PLEASE NOTE: Lemon is not required, this is the pectin method, which I used, since lemons were available. If lemons were not available, then you would just boil the liquid longer, waiting for it to be 2/3 of the original volume).

4) Boil until setting point (SETTING POINT: take a tablespoon of the liquid, let it cool by blowing, etc. If its consistency becomes thick and has a "skin" and forms a firmish ball when dropped on a plate, boil for a few minutes longer (just to be sure) and remove from heat) and bottle immediately.

I promise you, it's delicious.

Futali

I made this! A Malawian specialty...

1 small pumpkin, sweet potato, cassava or green bananas (I used sweet potato, 'cause that's what was at my market in the vill)

1 1/2 cups groundnut flour

salt to taste

3 cups water

(I also added some greens because they were in my kitchen, waiting to be used for something)

Prepare vegetables by cutting into large, bite-sized pieces and boiling until just tender. Add groundnut flour and bring to a boil. Simmer 10 minutes. Serve with rice or nsima (I served with tortilla bread and I also added like 4 teaspoons of curry powder).

Operation Send Me Postcards!

I have a huge favor - please humor me - I want to show my students the U.S. (yes, all of it) but pulling up pictures from Google and projecting them on a large screen is not something easily done here. So, if you are feeling bored, generous, spunky or just want to show some sweet Malawian kids a little slice of America, please send me a post card (either from your town or a city you are visiting or whatever) to:

Kathi Ackerman

P.O. Box 99

Chintheche

Malawi

Central Africa

Thanks, I really appreciate it. This should be a fun project and I will definitely let you know how it goes!

Oh, and p.s. – please send the post card in an envelope. I know, it defeats the purpose of a post card, but many people have found post cards from home hung up on the walls of the post office because they find the cards to be fun, beautiful and exotic and they definitely spice up décor in the post office