Journal Excerpts from September

September 1, 2011

I just got some major inspirado today. Just when I started to get anxious about IST, I realized (with a little help from my friends) that I don’t need to be on Peace Corps’ timeline. I know they suggest that I have prepared statistics and data for them to send back to Washington, but you can’t force integration. I think I am doing fairly well in the community, but my data isn’t about numbers, it’s about my relationships. Cheesin’ it up, are we? Yes, yes, I am – but it’s true! Am I going to remember how many diarrhea cases we cured at the hospital? Or my hilariously inappropriate interactions with Ama Chimbutu? Or the way the tailor yells “yewu, yewu, yewu!” after me when I walk to the market? Or how the children chase me with invisible cameras singing “Cha-ching, cha-ching, cha-ching!”

I have a good start on my stats and some solid information to relay back to headquarters. My relationships with the HSAs are growing, slowly so we will truly be able to work hand-in-hand. I think we have an understanding of each other now. Honestly, I prefer trust over a fully-written/half-assed assessment.
On my way to visit the headmaster at the secondary school, I was met by the garden guy, Kenneth. I met Kenneth a long time ago and we agreed to do some agriculture work together. He worked with Megan and Alex previously, so I was interested in working with him. He told me I needed to have a kitchen garden and I informed I that I intended on starting one, but I was concerned that I don’t know what I am doing.

“You have my number, why didn’t you call?” He demanded.

And then it dawned on me – I never thought to ask for help. I am either fiercely independent or stubborn as hell. And slightly insecure.

And just like that, I arranged for a garden date.

As I was chatting with Kenneth, who do you think shows up? The headmaster – the reason I was heading that direction. One of my favorite things about village life is that somehow everything falls into place. I arranged to meet with the school staff on Wednesday the following week to get started.

And with a snap of my fingers, I was back home just in time to cook lunch. Life is good.
I heard a group of women chatting as they walked by my house. I peaked out to see Ama Chimbutu and crew walking by with a large bucket neatly packed within a chitenje. I followed behind as they entered a house. Music was already playing as we surprised the unsuspecting Ama Limbani. The volume increased and the women swayed in a circle as the dancing commenced. Some made sounds (similar to a turkey gobble – or like ayiyiyiyiyiyiyiyiyi!), smiling big, arms swaying, hips shaking.

I whispered to Ama Dambo to ask what was happening. She told me one of the hospital staff was leaving and we were saying good-bye. I joined in the dancing (of course) and when the song was over, the women sat down and fanned themselves. Sweat beaded down their faces and splashed on the floor. They glistened, but were grinning ear to ear.

We each went around the circle, saying something nice to Mrs. Limbani. I stumbled my way though a statement in Tonga and then switched to English. She appreciated it. She teared up with all the good-byes from everyone.

To stop the tears, we started the music again and the dancing continued. We gave her two buckets and a beautiful chitenje, as well as money. She was so grateful. I hugged her good-bye and watched my beautiful, kind-hearted neighbors eat freezies from Ama Limbani’s freezer. Their energy and spirit is so moving and genuine (and universally understood and appreciated). It was a wonderful feeling and in this moment, I stepped back to admire their generosity and love. I felt completely happy – I knew that this is the place where I belong and there is no other place I would rather be. Bliss.

I am pretty sure this village was meant for me – or am I made to live in this village?

September 7, 2011

I recently offended my village. I was biking to Clarissa’s for turkey dinner and I made a huge blunder. When there is a funeral, it is customary for a piled of broken branches to be placed along the side of the road to let people know that someone has died. It is expected that people driving by will take off their hats in respect and to walk their bicycles through the branches. Well I wasn’t paying attention and I booked it right through the branches. Someone stopped me to tell me that wasn’t allowed and I played it off like “I am a stupid foreigner – I don’t know any better” but really I learned that my first week of cultural training. Shoot. Well, hopefully no one is too angry with me.

Turkey dinner, however, was amazing. Clarissa killed the bird, Sol cleaned it and I ate it. Well, yeah that pretty much sums it up. Clarissa’s neighbors were the ones who received the turkey as a gift and they were impressed with the roasted goodness. We shared stories of Thanksgiving pasts – it was glorious. Turkey for lunch and dinner.

Trivous and I are prepped for IST – at least I hope we are. Still typing my report and I leave tomorrow. Nothing like the last minuite…

I went to a meeting at the secondary school. It was a huge success – I am so less stressed about teaching life skills now that they gave me the run-down. Any meeting involving Coca-cola and cookies is a success, amiright?  

September 27, 2011

Okay, time to re-cap. I have plenty to say – pump yourself up (deep breath).

I had to psych myself up for the trip to Lilongwe two weeks ago. Traveling anywhere can be a hassle, but traveling to Lilongwe makes me cringe. Stacey, Clarissa and I started out on the 4am bus, where were dropped at the Salima turn—off. It’s typically easier to hitch from Salima once you get to the M1. Or so we thought. Erin met us on the side of the road, so there were four of us outside a school waiting for a ride. It didn’t take long for a group of 60 (or more) children to gather around us chanting, taunting and eventually throwing rocks and sticks in our general direction. Granted, they missed, however, it was the principle. These kids had no manners. We chased them back to school, asked adults to help us, ignored them – nothing could calm these wild children who seemed to come straight out of the book Lord of the Flies.

Finally a ride!

My stomach began to hurt when we reached Lilongwe. This place is overwhelming, spread out and it seems that every time I go there I get ripped off.

However, eating pizza and ice cream does help. After a few errands over the next two days, we finally made it to Dedza.

It was quite the family reunion. Hair was longer, faces were tanner, stories were exchanged, project ideas were bounced around and it felt like we were back home in Dedza. Over beers and dance parties, I hugged my friends, surprised by how much I missed them all. It’s easy to get wrapped up in your village, but just as easy to fall back in your routine among friends.

The second week of training we went to a cultural museum. They didn’t talk about Tonga culture, but I did get a better understanding of Gule Wamkulu, which was fascinating. I wish there were more traditional dances and rituals in Tonga Land, but cultures tend to lose tradition when there is education, immigration and intercultural marriages.

Our counterparts arrived in Dedza for part 2 of training and I was happy to see Trivous eager to start the week.

The week was filled with a plethora of topics and programs but I was happy to enjoy a walk with Trivous where we enjoyed the Dedza mountains and chatted about out plans for the next few months. Trivous is a great counterpart – a trong woman with a lot of insight. Her smile lights up a room and she has experienced a lot to women’s groups in the area. A single mom raising three kids and she always has time for me.

In Lilongwe at the end of the week, Health ’11 enjoyed pizza and beer. I am sad to say good-bye to the central and southern region – I feel like I rarely see these guys.

So what did I learn?
-how to make soap
-how to start an income-generating activity
-how to make delicious, healthy cookies (thanks, Jenny!)
-how to write grants
-how to use the Hope Kit and Go Girls kit
I am so pumped – ready to go!

I feel like I caught my second wind and my motivation is at an all-time high. Let’s do this!

As for my previously mentioned garden project (from months ago!) Jimmy and I are in the midst of getting ready. I went to two permaculture demos in Lilongwe and have seeds that are begging to be planted. I am afraid of killing my veggies before they get a chance to sprout, but Jimmy keeps reassuring me that he has plenty of watering cans (because that’s the real issue) so the only thing stopping me is me.

Oh guess what? I have worms. Yes, just like your dog – we have something in common. The past two weeks I have had an upset stomach – actually it felt more like something was trying to birth itself through my chest. Not pleasant. But, while I was in Lilongwe, I took a blood test and was told it was probably worms, which is not uncommon. You can get it from drinking unclean drinking water. And you only have to take a pill to rid your body of the worms. Sometimes they go away on their own, but the discomfort and nausea is really obnoxious.

Back in the comforts of Tonga Land, Dwambazi is doing well. Freddy told me that he will be attending a different school this term so I was happy to give him school fees in exchange for all his help. Charity returned for a few days to visit her aunt. It was great having this joyful bubble of laughter around my a house. It was a treat.

The heat on the lakeshore is ferocious these days. By 10 am, I don’t want to move. If the water is on, I will stand under the cool shower for a few minutes. My pantry is 20 degrees colder than the rest of my house, so sometimes I just sit in there in the dark for a while. My neighbors recently purchased refrigerators, so now I can enjoy mafreezies (5 kwacha each for a small bag of frozen juice). As you can imagine, not much happens mid-day.

And my new name is Madame Nya Chirwa and I am your resident Life Skills teacher. I honestly don’t know what makes me qualified to teach anything, but the school was looking for someone to relieve the already understaffed classrooms. Bonus: I am a lady, so the girls at the school finally have a female role model. I’m hoping to get a youth program going at the school – specifically for girls.

I was nervous before my first day. I jotted down some notes, but really I just went in there without a clue.
And truly, it wasn’t that bad. The students stood to greet me in unison, they raised their hand to speak to me and if I wanted to erase the chalkboard, one of them would eagerly do it for me. Kind of a power trip, if you ask me.

Well, hopefully this respect lasts longer than a week.

As for the lesson, I have to speak in Special English – slow and repeated four different ways while saying the same thing. Sometimes I get blank stares and so I try to come up with something to fill the silence. Usually it’s corny (yes, already on the right path of teaching adolescents) and it’s very typical, awkward Kathi. My spazziness has not yet registered with the students, but I think they will catch on and appreciate my quirkiness soon enough. As I write this, goats are tearing down my fence. I must go take care of this. And greet my neighbors, as it has cooled down enough for me to put clothes back on.