Transport

So how do I get around?! Things have changed. I don’t have my [somewhat] reliable Saab waiting in the driveway. I can’t just go places on a whim anymore. I always have to calculate time for transport and usually I calculate for worst-case scenario.

My patience is incredible. It grows steadily with each hour that I wait, standing on the side of the road for a ride. And with this fuel crisis, I am only growing more patient. With the exception of riding my bike, transport usually consists of me walking to the road (hopefully it’s a busy one) and waving my arm up and down to let someone know that I’m looking for a ride.

So, this is how I get around.

My sweet Peace Corps-issued Gary Fisher

This is actually my second bike. If you remember, my first bike lost a pedal 15 kilometers from my house mid-pedal to Clarissa’s site. This Gary Fisher is much more reliable. It’s got two pedals! I really only ride to visit my site mates or outreach clinics. I have big plans to ride to Dwangwa (the nearest town with a real grocery store) but it might be a long ride. I could do it. I will do it before my service is over. Plan.

Mini Bus

Probably my least favorite option and usually overlooked unless I am completely desperate. Mini buses should seat 18, but there are typically more crammed in. When it comes to transport in Malawi, there is always room for one more. It’s the size of a large mini van with bench seats. The mini bus stops often. Sometimes it also only goes half-way to your destination and makes you get off and get on a different mini-bus. They never tell you when they are doing this. Sometimes when they stop at a trading center, they will sit and wait for 20-30 minutes. I don’t know what they are waiting for – more patrons? Maybe. Or maybe they just want to irritate me. It is not uncommon to have someone’s elbow in your side, a baby on your lap and a rooster giving you the evil eye. Uncomfortable, hot and smelly. No fixed prices, but you can bargain down. Honestly though, no fun.

Coaster

A slightly better option than the mini-bus. But only slightly. It’s the size of a “short-bus” from the school days. The seats are somewhat roomier and you can cram more people in. It’s mostly just slightly easier to get in and out of a Coaster. Coasters are not as common as mini-buses.

Bus

A bus – a real bus – is a nice option. Sometimes. It’s usually reasonably cheap since the prices are fixed.. However, they stop often. And when they stop at roadblocks in the road, usually the passengers have to get off the bus. There are some early options that leave my village (at 4am) so you can get to your destination relatively quickly. If you get a seat, lucky you. There is standing room, but they tend to cram a lot of standers if possible. Dogs are not allowed on a big bus, though. However, roosters, goats, and chickens are allowed. I asked a conductor why this is and he said it was because you can’t eat dog. I told him I ate dog, but he dismissed me.

Matola

Not a bad option – you ride in the bed of a truck and there is no fixed rate. A man sits in the bed of the truck collecting money. Sometimes they haggle you because they know you are a forgeiner and think you have money. Sometimes matolas can get loaded (this is actually preferable for the matola driver because he wants money) – I’ve had to stand in the bed of a truck before. Just the other day there were 25 people in the back of my matola with me. They can pack on luggage and people like you wouldn’t believe. It’s preferred over a mini bus because even if you have someone’s elbow in your side and a baby on your lap, you have the breeze. Excellent during the hot season.

Bike Taxi

Sometimes frightening, but sometimes necessary – you ride on the back of someone’s bike. There’s a padded cushion, which is classy. Usually relatively cheap and sometimes a beautiful way to go when you are on your way to the bank through the Dwangwa sugar plantation. But, you are riding behind someone on a bike. The roads can be bumpy, sometimes the pedaler will make you get off to walk the bike up a hill, and sometimes sitting behind someone in the heat of the day can result in a smelly and sweaty interaction. Slightly unpleasant, but not always horrible.

Hitch

The all-time, preferred way to go. It’s free, sometimes there is air conditioning, you meet really interesting people (sometimes you network a little) and you get there fast. Hitching is not a negative thing in Malawi. It’s pretty safe (probably safer than a matola – I’ve had plenty of friends almost fall out of those things) and usually the driver speaks English so the conversation is pretty good.

That’s how I get places. I’m actually going to miss being able to flag somebody down when I need a ride someplace. But I won’t miss the waiting part.